Archive for October, 2008

Serengeti and Ngorongoro

Friday, October 31st, 2008

After our Kilimanjaro climbing experience, we still had six days left to do some Safari and get back to Nairobbery. I did’nt opt-in for a three day rush-in-rush-out tour to Serengeti, so instead of taking our time to relax and skipping the mentioned park, we rushed into the back of a four-wheel drive to easily explore the great parks of Tanzania. A guide and a cook along with three American fellow-Safarians were to keep us company. Benjamin from Arunga organized our Safari trip really well.

On the first day, after taking in plenty of water, we drove into Ngorongoro conservation area to stop at Oldupai Gorge, also known as “The Cradle of Mankind”. There’s a small museum next to this archeological site where they’ve dug up 2.5 million year-old human remains, and it’s quite interesting. But we were up for something I better: continuing our journey into Serengeti National Park, with the sun almost setting, we were surrounded by so many big animals running around our car! Wow, this made the whole trip already worth while. Like ants, the Zebra’s and wildebeast were running in hordes to nowhere…

Zebra'sandwildebeasts
the horde

We were lucky the rain had started, because now the great migration was starting as well. Or so the guide told us. Another good part of the rain was the wet camp site, with our guide & cook duo not feeling like setting up our (and their) tent. Therefore, they made arrangments for us to sleep in a luxurous tents, with built-in bathroom, musquito nets and lights! :-D

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The big tents were a good thing for another reason; the big (African) elephants walking through our camp. They were uprooting all the trees, and they would not overlook our big tents. We’re no food for herbivorous elephants, but I don’t think I’d sleep comfortably with them running around a small tent. They were so close!

Safari

The next day we had a whole day of spotting wild, beatiful! Too much to mention, too much to take pictures of. The guide had a real sharp eye for spotting animals, and I was glad I brought my big telephoto lens. I had hesitated in bringing it because of the weight, and the risk of leaving it behind while I climbed the mountain. I would have felt stupid without though..

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Ngorongoro

Ngorongoro Conservation Area is not National Park, so therefore the Masai are allowed to live there. We’re strongly discouraged to leave the car because of the big five walking around (what would you do if you met any of them, preferably hungry or angry), but the Masai have scared the lions so much that the kings of the jungle are afraid of them. Ah well, as long as everyone leaves the big white cars alone :-) .

Ngorongoro is one big crater, full of animals. It’s beautiful down there, and we spend a whole day watching and having a small picknick. Here are some pictures: (I’m still busy sorting and picking the nice ones out, and there are too many nice animals)

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Lake Manyara

We camped close to Lake Manyara, and that’s where we’d spend our last day. The park was nice, but not as spectaculour as the previous parks. We spotted loads of nice monkeys and friendly giraffes, but no predators like in the former parks. After four days in the car we were done. Ready to pack our stuff and fly back home!

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Prices

Safari Prices in Tanzania are an awkward thing, or high is a better word for it. Initially, we were a bit suprised that after checking the internet, talking to fellow travelers, reading books and shopping around, we hadn’t found any option for doing a trustworthy Safari we thought was reasonably priced. A few years ago we were a little bit more southern in South Africa, and there you could rent a car for around $30 a day, get into a National Park for maybe $20 per car for a month and camp anywhere for a similar amount per day. In Tanzania, renting your own car is at least $200 a day, a National Park charges $50 per person per 24 hours if you want to camp, and up to $200 per 24 hours for a car (e.g. for driving into Ngorongoro crater). All the prices are mentioned in US$, and that’s a good thing, because you’ll spend over a million Tanzanian rupees -or whatever- on it. You can never get enough money from the ATM to pay for a trip, nor fit it in your wallet, so you can’t help but feel ripped off. I think it’s a good idea that tourists fund the protection and conservation of Tanzanian wild life, but given the average annual income of $280, these prices seem outrageous. Or, like said, I’d gladly share some wealth to support the wildlife, I just hope they use the money to take care of the parks, and not to fill some government employee’s pockets. I’ve been told they’d quite recently doubled their National Park fees again (and are at least twice as expensive as their neighbouring countries), but I don’t think they’ll get away with doing that another time.

Kilimanjaro

Friday, October 24th, 2008

We made it! All the way up the top (5895m above sea level). Not bad for a guy from a flat country ;-)

Picture on the top

Why?

Climbing the Kilimanjaro has been on my wish list for a few years. I’ve loved hiking up mountains in National Parks for years, and when I read Douglas Adams’ description of the Kilimanjaro in The Salmon of Doubt, I was sold. He presents the Kilimanjaro as “the tallest mountain in the world”, and sidesteps Everest and all the others because “it all depends your point of view.” Because “If you were going to climb Everest, you would probably start somewhere in the Himalayas, and anywhere in the Himalayas is pretty damn high to start with!”. But about the Kilimajaro he writes: when you finally see … the highest mountain in the world (from base to apex), your blood runs cold. At last you say; “oh, above the clouds”. Your whole head tilts upwards… , ah well, you get the picture. And in his trip he describes wearing a rhino suit climbing up the mountain in order to raise money to fight the trade in rhino horn. That’s not part of my plan so far.

Preparation?

Only 4 weeks in advance we decided to climb Kili; there were still 6 spots left at www.expeditiekilimanjaro.nl. Our ‘international group’ turned out consisting of us and two students from our hometown, hilarious, but it was good fun anyway. There was little time to physically prepare, but each weekend I did a long hike. The highest hikeable point around here is the Kardinger mountain (artificial heap, 15 meter high), so I climbed it many times :-D .

I did bring good gear however. It’s bloody cold up the mountain; worst case around -20 to -30 degrees celsius. Most of the necessary stuff I had, but I bought some additional thermal wear (the best), a ninja-style baclava, and I borrowed a sleeping bag in addition to my -7 degrees-ready sleeping bag ;-)

The route

Our plane landed in Nairobbery (please fasten your wallets) (Kenya), flying there is a lot cheaper than anywhere in Tanzania, so from there we took a bus to Arusha (Tanzania). And it’s not the advertised three hours; with the road conditions we experienced you need a plane to cover it in that time. It’s at least five hours bumpy bumpy, and it’s a miracle the busses don’t break down, not even once on the trip.

In Arusha we stayed at Sakina Camp hostel, quite ok, but neither the advertised 20 minutes walk to the center (maybe if you’re one of the famous Kenyan marathon runners). Ah well, in Africa people are not in a hurry. The owner Siporah helped us very well , so we’d go there again. We visited Arusha National Park (with a nice walking safari, almost touching the buffalo’s ;-) ) and acquired about the safari possibilities after we’d return from the mountain, but we were really looking forward to starting our climb.

It takes a few days to get accustomed to Africa again, because it’s so different to our ‘normal’ lives. It’s hot, dirty, and you have to haggle a lot to avoid feeling cheated. It feels so unorganized, all existing infrastructure is built by the western colonialists in previous times, and broken down by now. It takes a few days to see it’s unorganized like an ant colony is unorganized, and then it’s quite doable to navigate through society.

We took a bus to Arusha, and our hostel provided the best view of town on the mountain:

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After an addional day of preparation, packing all the right gear with some help of our guides, and renting additional walking sticks for the way down, we were ready to go. I plotted our camps along the route on Google Maps:

Camps
Route

Walking

For seven days and six nights I’d be stuck on the mountain. Our group of 4 was supported by 16 men (!); 2 guides, 2 assistent guides, 2 cooks and 10 porters. Apart from all the hiking and primitive toilet facilities, it’s quite a luxurious trip. As soon as our group arrives at any camp, popcorn and tea is served, the tents are pitched up, our luggage has arrived and the cooks are preparing dinner. I don’t think I’ve ever made a trip this well-arranged!

Actually, the hiking is quite easy. It’s really moderate to cope with the height difference. The guides keep telling us to do “polle, polle”, because there’s a fair chance to be bothered by altitude sickness. It’s not the hiking that’s hard; it’s the height (5895m) and the cold (-25 degrees) that stop people from reaching the top. Like said, it gets colder up the mountain, and we take cover during the worst parts of a hail storm. One of our porters is less fortunate and slips, with a huge gass canister in his hand! He has to leave early to get his broken hand plastered…

Broken hand Sakayo

We were lucky in this case to be assisted by the friendly doctors of a group walking along with us. This group was quite special in it’s own, consisting of people with diabetes and supporting staff. The mission of the Kilimanjaro Challenge 2008 was to show that diabetes doesn’t necessarily limit you in doing things like climbing the Kili. Additionally, the purpose was researching how the diabetic body behaves on great height. Herefore, they (or rather their porters) tagged along a lot of solar-powered research equipment, and the research results will be used to advice future diabetic climbers. The group contained enough doctors to support their people in case of special needs, and to check our porter’s hand…

The top

The most strenuous part of our journey spans the trip from Barafu camp to Uhuru peak. Starting at 23.00 at night at 4600m, we have to climb up in the dark wearing enough clothes to protect us against the freezing cold. I wear two hats, two pairs of gloves, and still I have frozen (blue) fingers. We walk slow, out of breath, and everybody is in some way affected by the height (dizzyness, headache and loss of apetite). After hours and hours of just walking up, when the sun rises behind the clouds, we reach Stella point. This is the point where people bail out because they can’t continue, and I was unsure for a while whether everybody could make it. However, making it this far seems to re-fill our spirits and there’s no way any of us would give up. Only 45 long minutes later, walking alongside a big glacier, we’re at Uhuru Peak. Nothing to see through the clouds, but we’re at our destiny!
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JAOO

Thursday, October 2nd, 2008

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With a colleague of mine, I went to the JAOO conference in Arhus. Quite an interesting conference; kind of small, not specifically technology focused, very interesting speakers and a lot of discussions about the major issues in the IT field: Architecture // Cloud // Agile // Component Models // DSL.

We rented an ancient small house in the most picturesque street of town. So much better than a hotel without atmosphere…

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The session I liked most I can summarize as: everything you know is dead and crap — but here comes DCI. It was James O. Coplien that held a talk called Not your Grandfather’s Architecture: Taking Architecture into the Agile World – take 2. The talk was highly unstructured, but so entertaining. It’s not so much that I agree with the content or think it was the best contribution for new ideas as well that I liked what his talk did with the (over over crowded) crowd!

The presenter declared a lot of concepts to be crap and/or dead; such as runtime-polymorphism, class diagrams, Java, and aspect orientation. E.g., class diagrams was declared waste of time, because the end user doesn’t care about classes — however, object diagrams were somehow very good (like users care about objects). Much of the criticism was highly appropriate, but unclearly motivated. Next, James described a paradigm which was presented as brand new and the way to “save” object orientation: DCI, short for Data, Context, Interaction. The paradigm was illustrated through C++ code examples, and seemed to rely on a special way of combining C++ class templates with multiple inheritance — mixins, effectively. The goal of the new paradigm is allegedly to increase code readability. However confusingly the concepts were illustrated, I left with a feeling DCI may actually be something we will see more of.